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Error Codes

Whirlpool Dishwasher Error Codes (Also Maytag, KitchenAid)

Whirlpool dishwasher error codes F9 E1, F8 E4, F6 E1 and more: what each means, how to read the flashing lights, Maytag and KitchenAid, and when to call.

By Jax Appliance Pros · · 6 min read

Whirlpool dishwasher error codes use an F#E# format, such as F9E1, where the F number identifies the function and the E number the specific error. Some you can clear yourself in a few minutes, and others mean a part has failed. Maytag and KitchenAid publish the same reading method, and the same meanings for the core codes below, on their own support sites. Codes can vary by model, so confirm yours in your owner's manual.

Safety first: switch the dishwasher off at its circuit breaker before you reach into the sump, remove the kick plate or touch anything underneath. If water is on the floor, switch off the breaker before you touch the dishwasher.

How to read Whirlpool dishwasher error codes

On a display: Whirlpool says most models show the code automatically when a fault occurs; press a button to wake an idle screen. The code appears as F#E#, for example F9E1. You will also see it written with a space, as F9 E1; it is the same code.

On flashing lights: on models without a display, Whirlpool says a flashing Clean light usually means an error code. Read it in two parts:

  1. Count the first set of rapid flashes. That is the F number.
  2. Watch for a short pause of about 1 to 2 seconds.
  3. Count the second set of flashes. That is the E number.
  4. A longer pause, about 5 seconds, comes before the pattern repeats.

So 9 flashes, a short pause and 1 flash means F9E1.

Maytag and KitchenAid dishwasher codes

Maytag's and KitchenAid's own error code guides describe the same two-part flashing Clean light, and they list the same meanings as Whirlpool for F9E1, F8E4, F6E1, F7E2 and H2O. The other codes in this guide come from Whirlpool's site, so if you own a Maytag or KitchenAid, check that brand's support site for your model before acting on them.

Most codes start with a power cycle

For many codes, Whirlpool's first step is to reset the control: unplug the dishwasher for 30 seconds, or, if it is hard-wired, switch off its breaker for 30 seconds, then restore the power. If the code comes back, the dishwasher needs service. Full steps are in how to reset a dishwasher.

Drain codes

F9 E1 (F9E1): long drain

Whirlpool, Maytag and KitchenAid all list F9E1 as a long drain: the dishwasher is not draining. Whirlpool's steps:

  1. Remove the filter and clean it thoroughly under running water.
  2. Check the drain hose, from the back of the dishwasher to the sink, for kinks, pinches or clogs.
  3. If the dishwasher drains into a garbage disposal, clear the disposal, and on a new installation make sure the knockout plug was removed from the disposal's inlet.
  4. If you have an air gap, clear it following its manufacturer's instructions.
  5. Cycle the power for 30 seconds.

When to call: the filter and hose are clear and F9E1 returns. The drain pump is the usual cause; see our dishwasher not draining checklist.

F9 E2 (F9E2): drain motor error

Whirlpool calls F9E2 a drain motor error. Its steps: on a new installation, make sure the disposal knockout plug has been removed and the drain hose is routed correctly inside the frame; clear any clog in the disposal or drain; straighten a kinked drain hose; then cycle the power. When to call: the code returns. The drain pump motor or its wiring has usually failed.

Leak and water codes

F8 E4 (F8E4): water in the drip tray

Whirlpool, Maytag and KitchenAid list F8E4 as water detected in the drip tray, the tray under the tub where a float switch senses leaks. Whirlpool's steps:

  • If you see suds when you open the door, turn the dishwasher off and let them settle. Use only detergent made for automatic dishwashers.
  • On a new installation, check the water supply connection for leaks.
  • Water in the drip tray has to be emptied. With the breaker off, your manual shows how to release the tray.
  • Press Cancel once to silence the alarm, then press Cancel again to clear the code.

When to call: F8E4 comes back, because the leak is still there. See dishwasher leaking from the bottom for the usual sources.

F8 E5 (F8E5): fill valve stuck open

Whirlpool calls F8E5 a fill valve stuck open, and its instructions are specific: turn off the water to the dishwasher if you can, press Cancel once to silence the alarm, and shut the door. Whirlpool says not to turn off the power and to keep the door closed; only if you cannot shut off the water should you turn off the power. If water has already spread across the floor, switch off the breaker anyway, because your safety comes first. When to call: right away. The inlet valve needs replacing.

F8 E2 (F8E2): fill valve electric error

Whirlpool lists F8E2 as a fill valve electric error. Cycle the power for 30 seconds, and if the code returns, schedule service. The inlet valve or its wiring is the usual cause.

H2O: not detecting water

Whirlpool says H2O means the dishwasher is not detecting water. Make sure the water supply to the dishwasher is on and the supply hose is not kinked, then press Start, and the dishwasher will try to fill and resume the cycle. When to call: the water is on and H2O keeps returning, which usually points to the inlet valve.

Control and motor codes

F6 E1 (F6E1): user interface error

Whirlpool, Maytag and KitchenAid list F6E1 as a user interface error in the main control. Cycle the power for 30 seconds. If the code remains, call for service; the control board, the user interface board or the connection between them is at fault.

F7 E2 (F7E2): wash motor error

All three brands list F7E2 as a wash motor error. Cycle the power, and if the code returns, schedule service. The wash motor or its connection is the usual cause.

F1 E1 (F1E1): control module

Whirlpool lists the control module as the potential cause of F1E1. Cycle the power; if the code returns, the control needs service.

F2 E1 (F2E1): stuck key or console error

Whirlpool lists F2E1 as a stuck key or console error. Cycle the power; if it returns, the touchpad or console usually needs replacing.

What usually fails

  • Drain pump. F9E1 or F9E2 that returns with a clean filter and a clear hose.
  • Water inlet valve. F8E5, F8E2, or H2O with the water fully on.
  • The source of a leak. F8E4: a hose, fitting, pump seal or door seal.
  • Wash motor. F7E2 that returns after a power cycle.
  • Control or user interface board. F1E1, F2E1 or F6E1 that returns.

What it costs in Jacksonville

The diagnostic is $79, waived when you approve the repair. Dishwasher repairs start at $179 plus parts, and you get a written flat-rate estimate before any work begins. On standard brands, most dishwasher repairs run about $200 to $380 all in, with circulation pumps and control boards at the higher end. Many repairs can be finished on the first visit, so most Whirlpool dishwasher repairs are finished on the first visit, and if a part has to be ordered, there is no trip charge for the return visit. Every repair carries our 90-day parts-and-labor warranty. See our pricing, and for an older dishwasher, our repair-or-replace guide.

Schedule dishwasher repair or call (904) 561-4790 for same-day service across Jacksonville & the First Coast.

About Jax Appliance Pros

Locally owned appliance repair for Jacksonville, the Beaches, St. Johns, Clay and Nassau counties. Same-day or next-day service on refrigerators, washers, dryers, dishwashers, ovens, cooktops, ranges and garbage disposals. $79 diagnostic waived with the repair, 90-day parts-and-labor warranty. Insured. More about us.

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