Whirlpool Washer Error Codes: F9 E1, F8 E1, 5d and More

Whirlpool washer error codes tell you which system stopped the cycle: the drain, the water supply, the suds, the lid or door lock, or the load. Most start with a check you can do yourself, and a few are reminders rather than faults. Whirlpool notes that its lists may not include every code for your model, so confirm your code in your owner's manual or on Whirlpool's front load error code page.

Safety first: unplug the washer or switch off its breaker before you reach behind it or open any panel, and keep towels down, because water and electricity do not mix. Never force, tape or bypass a lid lock or door lock.

Whirlpool washer error codes: the basic reset

For any F# E# code without a specific fix below, Whirlpool says to unplug the washer, or disconnect its power, for 5 minutes. Plug it back in, reselect the cycle and press Start. Whirlpool's front-load page also clears several codes by pressing Pause or Cancel twice, then Power once. If the code comes back, the washer needs service.

F9 E1: washer not draining

F9 E1 means the washer is taking too long to drain. Whirlpool's front-load page says drain times are longer than expected, typically over eight minutes. Top-loaders call it a long drain, and some top-load models show drn or Ld for the same problem. Whirlpool's checks:

1. Make sure the drain hose goes no more than 4.5 inches into the standpipe or laundry tub. Pushed deeper, it can siphon.
2. Do not seal the hose into the pipe with tape. It should be loose but secure, with an air gap around it.
3. Straighten any kinks, and clear clogs from the hose, the standpipe or the laundry sink.
4. On a front-loader, clean the drain pump filter if your model has one (the manual shows where), with towels and a shallow pan down first. Also check the small drain holes inside the door seal, which Whirlpool says can clog.

When to call a technician: the hose and filter check out but F9 E1 returns. A failing drain pump is the usual cause; our guide to a washer not draining or spinning covers the symptoms.

F8 E1, LF or Lo FL: washer not filling

F8 E1 means the washer is not detecting the right amount of incoming water; Whirlpool's front-load page calls it low water flow. LF (or Lo FL) means it is taking too long to fill. On a top-loader, Whirlpool says the washer may lock and ignore the controls while it runs an automatic drain of 8 to 10 minutes, so let that finish first.

1. Open both the hot and cold faucets all the way. Whirlpool says the washer needs both.
2. Check that the hoses are not kinked, and that red goes to hot and blue to cold.
3. Remove any anti-flood hoses or devices; Whirlpool says they can reduce water flow.
4. Turn off the water, disconnect the hoses at the washer and clean the inlet screens with an old toothbrush, mild soap and water. Maytag, which Whirlpool owns, says to clean them in place rather than pulling them out.
5. Check the drain hose depth again; a hose pushed too deep can siphon water out as the washer fills.

When to call a technician: the water is on, the hoses and screens are clear, and the code keeps returning. The water inlet valve is the usual repair; see washer not filling with water.

5d, Sd or Sud: too many suds

Whirlpool lists Sd and 5d as the same code: the washer has found excessive suds and runs a suds reduction routine on its own, so let it continue. Some models show Sud instead.

• Use HE detergent only, measured by the detergent maker's directions for your load size and soil level.
• Save large detergent pacs for large or heavily soiled loads.
• Skip "no splash" or "easy pour" chlorine bleach; Whirlpool says the thickeners in it can create suds.
• Some top-loaders show F0E2, Over Suds Detected. Whirlpool suggests a Rinse/Spin cycle to clear leftover suds, then cleaning the washer with a washer cleaner before the next load.

This is a detergent fix, not a repair.

Lid and door codes: F5 E1, F5 E2, F5 E3 and Lid

• F5 E1 (top-load): a door switch problem. Close the lid fully and make sure nothing, such as clothing or shipping material, is blocking the switch.
• F5 E2 (top-load): the washer cannot engage the lid lock, possibly because something is in the way. Clear the lid lock area.
• F5 E2 (front-load): the door is not locking properly. Make sure nothing blocks the door and it closes completely.
• F5 E3 (top-load): a door lock problem.
• Lid: the lid was left open. Close it to clear the display. If it stayed open more than 10 minutes, the cycle resets and drains; restart it without adding more detergent.

For the F5 codes, reset the washer by unplugging it for 5 minutes. When to call a technician: the code returns. The lid lock or door lock assembly is the usual part, and it should never be bypassed. If the door will not open at all, see washer door won't unlock.

Load codes: uL, oL and F7 E1

• uL: the load is unbalanced and the washer could not fix it. Wait for the lid to unlock, spread the items evenly and press Start/Pause. Whirlpool suggests balancing a single item, such as a rug, with a few towels, and using the Bulky/Sheets cycle for comforters.
• oL: the load is too large. Remove some items and restart.
• F7 E1 (front-load): a motor speed sensing error; the motor cannot reach the right speed. Whirlpool says to confirm the shipping bolts were removed and the washer is not overloaded.

When to call a technician: nearly every load ends in uL (usually worn suspension parts), or F7 E1 returns with a normal load.

Maytag washer codes

Maytag washers use the same codes. Maytag documents F9 E1 as a long drain and F8 E1, LF or Lo FL as a slow fill, with the same checks. Its top-load HE list adds a few more:

• HC: the hot and cold hoses are reversed. Turn off the water and swap them.
• LdL: the lid is not locking. Check for items under the lid and detergent buildup around the lock.
• LdU: the lid cannot unlock. Remove anything, such as a laundry basket, from the top.
• PF: a power failure interrupted the cycle. Touch and hold Start to restart.

What usually fails

• Drain pump: F9 E1, drn or Ld with a clear hose and filter.
• Water inlet valve: F8 E1 or LF with the water on and clean screens.
• Lid lock or door lock: F5 codes that return after a reset.
• Motor or speed sensor: F7 E1 with a normal load.
• Suspension parts: constant uL.
• Control board: other F# E# codes that survive the reset. We test before replacing one.

What it costs in Jacksonville

The diagnostic is $79, waived when you approve the repair. Washer repairs start at $179 plus parts, and typical all-in repairs run $200 to $400; pumps, locks, lid switches and valves fall in that range, while tub bearings and transmissions can exceed $450. You get a written flat-rate estimate before any work begins, and many Whirlpool washer repairs can be finished on the first visit. If a part must be ordered, there is no trip charge for the return visit. Every repair carries our 90-day parts-and-labor warranty. See our pricing.

Repair or replace?

Washers typically last 8 to 12 years, front-loaders less. If a repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new washer and yours is past the middle of its life, replacement usually wins. Our guide on whether a washer is worth repairing walks through it.

Schedule washer repair or call (904) 561-4790 for same-day service across Jacksonville & the First Coast.