Microwave Error Codes: Samsung, GE, Whirlpool and LG

Microwave error codes are messages from the control board, and on most brands the first step is the same: cut the power for about a minute and try again. If the code comes back, the microwave needs service, and with a microwave that always means a technician, because the cabinet should never be opened at home. Codes vary by model, even within one brand, so confirm yours in your owner's manual.

Safety first: never open the cabinet

Never remove the microwave's cover or outer cabinet. A microwave runs on thousands of volts inside, and its high-voltage capacitor can hold a dangerous charge even after the microwave is unplugged. The Consumer Product Safety Commission warns against do-it-yourself microwave repair for that reason. Everything below is done from the outside: the plug, the breaker, the door and the keypad.

Microwave error codes: the reset to try first

1. Write down the code and the model number.
2. Unplug the microwave. For an over-the-range or built-in model, switch off its breaker.
3. Wait. Samsung says 60 seconds, Whirlpool one minute and GE 30 seconds. If steam or a spill may have reached the controls, Samsung says to let it dry first.
4. Restore power and watch the display. Test with a cup of water, never with the microwave empty.
5. If the code returns, stop using the microwave and book a repair.

Samsung microwave error codes

Samsung publishes the longest list, grouped by part:

• SE (-SE-): a key short error, which points to the keypad. On many displays an S looks like a 5, so SE often reads as 5E. Samsung says moisture can cause errors, so let the microwave dry before the reset.
• C-d0, C-d1, C-d2: a door or key error.
• C-20 to C-22, E-21 and E-22: the temperature sensor.
• C-F0 to C-F2 and E-81 to E-83: a communication error. TE is a touch communication error.
• E-36 and E-47: a door open error. Close the door firmly and check that nothing is in the way.
• E-61 and E-62: the humidity sensor.

Samsung's full list is on its microwave error code page. Its advice for every code is the reset above, then service if the code returns.

GE microwave error codes, including PF

Seeing PF, 888 or 8888 on a GE microwave is not a fault. GE says it appears after a power failure, a new installation or after the microwave was unplugged. Press Clear/Off or Cancel/Off and reset the clock.

GE's F-codes do point to parts:

• F1: open thermal sensor, due to excessive heat in the cavity.
• F2: shorted thermal sensor.
• F3: shorted touch pad panel.
• F4 and F5: open or shorted humidity sensor.
• F6: shorted temperature probe.
• F10: shorted touch screen.
• Probe: the temperature probe is open or not plugged in during a temperature cook. Push it firmly into the wall jack and the food.
• 18 power watch code: an issue with the electronic control.

GE says switching off the breaker or fuse for 30 seconds sometimes clears a code.

Whirlpool microwave error codes

Whirlpool over-the-range models use these. For each F-code, Whirlpool's fix is to switch off the breaker for one minute, restore power and watch for one minute:

• PF or a flashing colon: a power failure, or the clock needs setting. Press Cancel/Off and set the clock. If the colon keeps flashing, Whirlpool says to have an electrician check the power; use a licensed one.
• SE, F2 and F2E1: the keypad (user interface) or its wiring.
• F2H1: the vent fan and light switch or its wiring.
• F1E4 and F7: the microwave could not carry out a function; the appliance control board or its wiring.
• F6: the relay control board or its wiring.
• F3H: the humidity thermistor or its wiring.
• DOOR or OPEN/CLOSE DOOR: not a fault. The door was closed for 5 minutes or more without the microwave being started. Open and close it, then start a cycle.

LG microwave error codes

LG lists these in its US help library:

• LOC: the lock function is on. Press and hold Stop/Clear until LOC disappears.
• E10: an internal short in the control board. Unplug the microwave for 1 minute, plug it back in and try again.
• F1: a mainboard problem.
• F2: the thermistor, with the temperature out of range.
• F3: the control panel. LG says foreign material around the touch panel can trigger it, so wipe the panel clean, then unplug the microwave and plug it back in.
• F4: the humidity sensor.
• F5: the damper switch.
• 12H or 24H: not an error. The clock mode needs setting.

LG says F1, F2, F4 and F5 require service.

What usually fails

• Keypad or touch panel: Samsung SE, GE F3, Whirlpool SE and F2, LG F3.
• Control or relay board: Whirlpool F1E4, F6 and F7, LG E10 and F1.
• Sensors: GE F1, F2, F4 and F5, Samsung C-20, Whirlpool F3H, LG F2 and F4.
• Door switches and latch: Samsung E-36 or E-47 door codes that return with the door firmly shut.
• Vent fan and light switch: Whirlpool F2H1.

If the display is blank instead of showing a code, see microwave stopped working. If it runs without heating, see microwave not heating.

What it costs in Jacksonville

We repair over-the-range and built-in microwaves. The diagnostic is $79, or $119 for a microwave-oven combo, and it is waived when you approve the repair. Repairs start at $179 plus parts, or $249 plus parts for oven-microwave combos, with a written flat-rate estimate before any work begins. Many repairs can be finished on the first visit, and every repair carries our 90-day parts-and-labor warranty. See our pricing.

Repair or replace?

Honestly, a countertop microwave is usually cheaper to replace than to repair, and we will tell you so. Over-the-range and built-in models cost more and are fitted to your cabinets, so a keypad, sensor or board repair usually makes sense. Our guide to whether a microwave is worth repairing covers the decision.

Book microwave repair or call (904) 561-4790 for same-day service across Jacksonville & the First Coast.